Is Starting Retinol After 40 Even Worth It?
Image via Adobe Stock.
By Kayla Greaves
We’ve all heard about it from our friends, seen the memes on social media, or at least read about it somewhere: Retinol is queen bee of this whole anti-aging thing. The vitamin A derivative helps accelerate cell production, resulting in exfoliated skin, smoothed out fine lines, and unclogged pores. But can the ingredient still be effective if you’ve started using it after 40 versus your 20s — even after visible signs of aging have shown up on your face?
The long and short answer is yes.
If we’re being completely honest here, this whole luxury skincare craze is a fairly recent phenomenon. Over the past decade, the industry has exploded, with new beauty brands and ingredients popping up every two seconds, in turn making skincare education more accessible. It was only in 2016 when the FDA approved the first-ever over-the-counter retinol product: Differin Gel 0.1 percent, which was technically only cleared to treat acne — not wrinkles. Before then, you could only get retinol products with a prescription from your dermatologist.
“While there is no set time that someone should start using retinol — and generally everyone can benefit from using it — I recommend using it as part of your skincare routine during your 20s, as production of collagen fibers starts to decline around this age,” says Daniel Isaacs, cosmetic chemist and chief product officer and founding partner of clinical skincare line Medik8.
Starting retinol later in life, once you’ve begun to notice signs of aging, isn’t a waste of time, though. It just may take longer to see visible results.
“If someone begins using retinol after 40, they will have to manage their expectations,” shares California-based celebrity aesthetician Joshua Ross of SkinLab, meaning if you already have fine lines, for example, they may take longer to fade. “But the retinol will slow the process of the aging of skin.”
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Diane Berson adds that you should expect your skin to look healthier and more refreshed over time. “It can help smooth the skin by exfoliating the rough outer layer, stimulate collagen production, plump the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and also help fade pigmentation and even out the skin color.”
Whether you have balanced, well-hydrated skin, or tend to be on the drier side, when it comes to retinol, a good rule of thumb to follow is to start slow and to use sunscreen. Look for products with a 0.01 percent to 0.03 percent concentration, and only apply once a week to start. The following week, use twice, then go up from there on a weekly basis until you’re able to tolerate using it every night, or every other night — and always make sure to pair it with a rich moisturizer as it’s known to cause dryness.
But, if you’ve been using a retinol for at least six months and have yet to see results, Dr. Berson suggests speaking to a dermatologist about prescription options, which offer a higher concentration of the ingredient. During your appointment, you should also go over the rest of your regimen to ensure nothing else in your routine could counteract with the active — potentially causing negative side effects like flaking and redness.
“Tretinoin is [a more] potent ingredient, and often shows results faster,” Isaacs shares as an example. However, if hormonal changes have caused your skin to become dry and sensitive — which, as the cosmetic chemist shares, is completely normal as collagen production slows and skin loses elasticity — it’s probably a better idea to take the slow and steady approach by sticking to an OTC retinol product.
Dr. Berson is a fan of AlumierMD’s Retinol Resurfacing Serum 1.0, which boasts a microencapsulated retinol that is gradually released as you sleep. The formula also includes hydrating ingredients like niacinamide and honey to combat some of the ingredients’ harsh side effects, such as redness and flaking. “Patients find it to be very cosmetically elegant and like the way their skin looks and feels,” the MD shares.
Ross is a fan of iS Clinical’s Retinol + Emulsion 0.3. “It contains [the naturally-derived version] of retinol, bakuchiol, in addition to botanicals and antioxidants,” he shares. “It’s tolerated by most skin types, so it’s a great one-size-fits-all option.”
On the other hand, Isaacs suggests people over 40 explore retinaldehyde (otherwise known as retinal, with an “A”), as it’s a stronger version of vitamin A that can yield faster results. “It’s a powerful ingredient and even when implemented later, it can deliver amazing age-defying results on the skin,” he explains.
Some of his favorite products for this demographic include Medik8’s Crystal Retinal 3, with 0.03 percent retinaldehyde, for those who are just introducing their skin to the ingredient. Once your skin is able to tolerate the formula, he says you can safely and slowly increase the concentration. “[Next, go for] Crystal Retinal 6, Crystal Retinal 10, and then when your skin is fully adapted and can tolerate a higher potency, Crystal Retinal 20.”
Keeping skin dryness and sensitivity in mind, Isaacs suggests starting off by applying these serums to the face twice a week for the first two weeks, then every other night for the two weeks following, and every night thereafter. “All of this helps to mitigate any potential irritation concerns,” he says.
In the event you are noticing flakiness, increasing redness, and dryness, Dr. Berson has a hack for keeping your skin barrier protected while still being able to enjoy the benefits of retinol. “[I] will often recommend a hydrating moisturizer be used first, and then the retinol added over it in a layered fashion,” she explains. “This allows the active ingredient to still exert its effect, but reduces the potential for irritation and improves tolerability.”
The MD suggests looking for moisturizers with ingredients like niacinamide, glycerin, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid as well. “It may take a bit longer to acclimate to the retinol than younger skin,” she shares. “But once it has adjusted, most tolerate it very well.”
That said, no matter your age, it’s never too late to start using retinol — just be sure to work with your dermatologist to figure out which products, and treatment plan, works best for you.